April 21 Moreland Gap Shelter 411.5 Miles
I skipped the offered $10 breakfast at Doe River Hostel and a couple of other older guys and I set out at 7:30 on the trail.
I planned on doing 8 miles today. But I walked the 8 miles easily and was in the shelter by 2:00 for a tuna packet and tortilla roll lunch. It was clear and nice out and the terrain was not bad (few rocks and roots) so I figured I could make the next shelter by 7, hopefully before it rain.
I ran into Gerbil Jersey on the way and we hiked independently but having the same idea of Moreland Gap Shelter by 7.
But I got into a great groove and began clipping along not stopping for water. I saw people putting up tents in small clear areas of rhododendrons as darkness fell.
By 7PM I arrived at the shelter just before it began to lightening and pour. My first 18.4 mile day! I felt a nice sense of accomplishment.
A young couple was there eating their cooked food and wondering why I don't cook.
Efficiency.
Oh. OK.
Why don't you stay in shelters I asked.
Because I promised myself I would not use a shelter or a hostel on my thru-hike.
Ok.
So I had the whole 6 man shelter to myself through the night and morning of rain and the thunder. Another first time.
I realize, too, that the late February and early March bubble that I was a part of was thinning out. Maybe 50% of the people I had started on the trail with had fallen out. I don't think I have been walking very fast and I do take my share of zero days. But I'm starting to see more young people that walk fast and who started in mid-March, that I don't know.
The next bubble are the hundreds starting to leave Springer Mtn. Ga. around early April. Many will hit Damascus, Va for Trail Days, the big 2017 Hiker Festival in mid-May.
By that time I should be a couple hundred miles north of Damascus. I could shuttle back for Trail Days. I don't know. I 'd like to see old hiking friends but at the same time I am not the big party animal I used to be.
But why be a an old fogey? What? am I ready for the Home? Party on Garth!!
April 22 Black Bear Resort 418.2
God I didn't want to stop this afternoon even if it was raining. But my weather app said 90% chance of thunder and rain this afternoon and into the night.
And after my first 18 miler I was sore I have to admit. And I didn't want to walk in a thunderstorm to the next shelter.
So I walked a relatively 6 in the rain and came out on a road that pointed to Black Bear Resort and walked .4 miles up to it in my poncho. I could see the river where the resort sat was very high.
I took the bunk house at $20.00 and resupplied while I was there hoping to get out tomorrow.
I blogged some, watched Blazing Saddles on TV and ate a couple of unthawed burgers.
I finished my Western novel and picked up a Zombie book out of the hiker box. I also grabbed a moonpie out of a box that someone had donated earlier.
I told a group of three guys coming in from the rain about the moonpies and the box was cleared out in minutes like a pack of feeding piranha.
April 23 Black Bear Resort 418.2
It poured and flooded the streets all day. Hikers were coming down from the hills in droves filling up the Resort's cabins and bunkhouse.
I blogged, read and played Scattergories and other boardgames with a South African guy and his buddies into the night.
Then talked with my bunkmates, a group of young cats that I hadn't seen for a number of weeks.
I told them I was tired and had to leave in the morning and that they would have to party outside, and thus pulled the string down on the evening.
At least for me.
April 24 Vanderventer Shelter 435.9 miles
A 17.7 day out of Black Bear and a very interesting walk.
It was after a large rain so I expected mud and more mud. And slick rocks and roots. But what I didn't expect was the flooding of the AT Trail.
I had a nice level walk for about a mile and then descended down a hard rocky hill to the river below and began walking along the river and the AT there.
And then after 50 yards or so I couldn't walk anymore. The trail was flooded out. I could walk along the edge of a hill but it was way too steep. I'd slide right into the water.
So I went back with some other daypackers behind me and climbed back up those rocks to the trail head. There was a trail that went straight, that was a bypass, and that worked fine for a while until we came to some more flooded trail.
Cleverly, we grabbed a large log and threw it across the stream, watching the log float away.
Screw it. We walked through the water with our shoes on. Squish, squish.
A first for me.
But by afternoon I was walking a nice clip and got to this shelter about 4 and set up a place inside it and retrieved my water from the stream and was reading my book in my bag by 5:30.
People started flooding in to the 6 person shelter. We ended up with eight in it lined up like sardines. There were about 15 tents and hammocks and lean-to's around the shelter when I woke up the next morning. Wow. That allergy pill and exhaustion makes for a good nights sleep. I hadn't realized anyone had come in.
April 25 Double Springs Shelter 450.3
I felt great this morning and had a very enjoyable day walking the usual PUDs on relatively easy terrain. My shoes were soaked by the morning dew on the grass lining the trail. Pretty to look at when it is dry out. Oh well.
It is supposed to be fine walking like this all the way to Damascus.
Along the way I met the family and Grumpy going SOBO and slackpacking from Boots Off Hostel. They were all in good cheer without a heavy pack.
I was one of the first people at this shelter and it fine having put in a 14 mile day.
April 26 Damascus, Virginia 470 Miles
Momentum. Jewish girl. Tn-Va. border. Walking fast. Trail Magic. Getting to Damascus.
Got up
at six-thirty, rolled over in my bag and ate a couple
of trail bars and the last of some cheese. . By seven I was on
the trail walking in a fine mist.
I felt good and hit the trail and a quick clip. I met up with D.C,, a hiker from D.C., and we walked together off on into Damascus.
By late afternoon we had crossed the Tn.-Va. border into Virginia.
I was starting to get shaky and my feet were aching. I had been putting in more miles than ever on the trail to Damascus because the terrain is less rocky and root-ridden. But that doesn't mean my feet don't feel the pace. D.C said she was feeling it too.
I looked down at my shoes at lunch and saw that they were ripped up along the sides. They were supposed to last 500 miles. No, more like 300.
I might have to check out shoes in Damascus.
Walked into Damascus around 4 o'clock and walked along the AT straight into town along the sidewalk. Trail towns are fun; no hitching to get off the AT, just walk through it.
I met Gerbil sitting on a bench and she recommended the Woodchuck Hostel. It was nearby so I went there and got a $20 bunk. It was a charming two-story house with a couple of "cabins" with bunkbeds inside and a yard for those who wanted to tent. There was also a T-Pee that fit four. Different.
Chuck, the owner, is personable and relaxed and smart enough to make his place a no drugs or drinking hostel. Why bother with that hassle? I'd do the same if I had one.
So I showered, went for a resupply at Food City, and went to one of the only places in town that served beer. Didn't stay out long. Was in bed by eight.
April 27 Damascus, Va. 450.3
Decided to zero. My feet were sore and I was having trouble walking around town much less on the trail.
Moved from the bunk to the house which had beds with linens on them. Nice.
Chuck fixed a great breakfast of waffles and potatoes and coffee.
I went to the library to write this blog and upload some pictures. Doing it from a phone is no fun and I rarely have any service on the trail.
Also, after walking up hundreds of flights of stairs who wants to think at all, much less write?
I met 24 year old Sherpa at the one and only restaurant/bar and he ate steak, baked potato and a medium pizza and I had a large bowl of spaghetti and split the pizza with him. I didn't realize I was so hungry.
Leaving tomorrow so headed back to the hostel and talked with Gerbil and a couple of other guys. One of the guys, a 64 year old guy with a shin splint problem, mentioned that he was going to walk the Creeper Trail which goes alongside the At for almost 10 miles. It is supposedly easier too. Cool. My feet will welcome that.
Shit. I have got to get some new shoes. I'll have to check on that tomorrow. They have to fit though, otherwise I'll keep walking in these size 14 shredded ones until I do.
It's supposed to be sunny tomorrow! Yeah!
